Fly of the Month

Bob Ireton brings together his experience in fly fishing, aquatic entomology, and knowledge of fly tying techniques and materials, to design and tie durable and effective flies.

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   Volume 5,  Issue 11                                                       November 2004

EGG SUCKING LEECH
Fly, Text, and Photography by Bob Ireton

One begins to think about steelhead fishing as the days shorten, and Fall temperatures start their downward spiral toward Winter! We are very lucky in Ohio to be near good Lake Erie and Michigan steelhead waters! One of the best flies for this species is the egg pattern. It is probably the most successful pattern for Lake Erie steelhead. Another great all around fly is the woolly bugger. One variation of the woolly bugger is the leech pattern, another good steelhead fly. What if we could combine these two great patterns into one? Would you believe the ‘Egg Sucking Leech’? And it is not for ‘just’ steelhead. Individually, both these patterns have a very nice catch record for many species of fish. Combined, a deadly combination!

MATERIALS

Hook – Daiichi 1750, Mustad 9674, Orvis 0167, TMC 9395, or equivalent.
Size – 4-12.
Thread – Black in Uni 3/0 & 6/0, and red in Uni 3/0.
Weight – Lead wire, or equivalent.
Tail – Black arctic fox fur.
Body – Black ice dubbing.
Egg – Red egg yarn.

TYING STEPS click on pictures for larger view

1 –  Place the hook properly in the vice, and crimp down barb, if desired. I am using a Daiichi 1750, size 8, for this fly. The body of this fly, not counting the tail, will be 2/3 leech, and 1/3 egg. Attach the 3/0 thread 1/3 shank length behind the eye of the hook, and lay on a tight base rearward, stopping at the barb. Tie a half hitch if you like.

 2 – Using lead wire the diameter of the hook, apply the weight. I have applied a dozen wraps of .025.

3 – Now cover the lead, and build a ramp of thread on both ends of the lead. The 3/0 thread covers much faster than 6/0. On either end, tie a couple of half hitches, then a whip finish. Cut off the 3/0 working thread. Cover the thread with Dave’s Flexament. Now attach the 6/0 working thread above the barb

4 – Snip a nice bunch of arctic fox fur, and using the base section, tie in a tail the length of the hook shank. Snip off the excess, and finish covering the tail tie in area. Tie a couple of half hitches. Adding some head cement to the tail tie in thread is a good idea.

5 – Form a dubbing loop, and arrange the dubbing evenly in the loop. Bring the working thread forward, and tie a half hitch

6 – Spin the dubbing loop to form a nice dubbing rope. Palmer this dubbing rope forward to form the body. Tie off the rope, and snip off the excess. Tie several more turns of thread, then a couple of half hitches. Tie a whip finish, and snip off the working thread. Put some head cement on the thread wraps.
 

7 – Attach the red 3/0 working thread, and make a base the length of 1/3 hook shank length. A pair of dividers is helpful for this. If the black thread inched over onto the ‘egg’ portion, just cover it with the red thread. This isn’t a problem, as the egg will cover this. Leave the red thread in the center of the red base, and tie a half hitch. Put some head cement on the red thread.

8 – Cut 1-2 pieces of red egg yarn, 1” long each. Place on top of the fly, and palmer the thread up and over the mid section of the yarn. As you start the second turn, let loose of the yarn, and let it roll over to the bottom of the fly as you tighten up the thread. Do another tight wrap with the thread.
9 – Cut 2-3 more pieces of egg yarn, 1” each piece. Place this on top of the fly, and attach with several tight wraps of thread. Bring the thread in front of the yarn, and tie several half hitches. If you can, do a whip finish. Snip off the working thread. Put some head cement on the thread. Note: More pieces of yarn make a denser egg.
10 – When cutting the yarn, the closer to the base you cut, the denser the egg will be. If you have curved blade scissors, this is one of those times to use them. Tightly hold the yarn on the upper side of the fly, and while maintaining an upward pull, snip off the yarn.
11 – This is what it will look like. Then rotate the fly to bring the underside of the fly in the upright position. Grasp the yarn as before.
12 – As in the top yarn, snip off the yarn for the bottom of the fly the same height as before. Even up the egg shape with the scissors, and tease the yarn so it of even density.

© 2004 Robert R. Ireton, II


 

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